A West Texas Getaway to Marfa and Alpine

Marfa, Texas

The artists who converged here in the 1970s turned a quiet desert town into an international sensation.

Begin your journey at the Chinati Foundation, where large-scale works seemingly shape time and space. Concrete and steel stretch into long passages that stage the desert’s light as it shifts with your steps and the slow arc of the sun. From there, step into Hotel Paisano, a Spanish Revival landmark threaded with Hollywood lore and a lobby tuned for lively and intimate conversations. A few blocks away, the Marfa and Presidio County Museum deepens the region's story with tales from the borderlands, ranching artifacts, and room-by-room vignettes that make the streets outside feel modern.

Beyond the edge of town, a lone storefront wears a luxury logo like a dare. Prada Marfa is a peculiar sculpture. Rising from the open country, it’s equal parts satire and cultural critique. Take your photos, then drift back for a late lunch at Margaret’s, set in Marfa’s historic Brite Building. Here, family recipes and endless drink options await after a day of absorbing art and desert mystique. Before the day’s over, head to Bordo. It’s an Italian deli in a restored service station, serving up remarkably good food with simple, whole ingredients. Their select staples and wood-fired sandwiches have earned a devoted following, and even the pantry goods here feel like souvenirs.

As twilight arrives, head for the Marfa Lights Viewing Area to see the desert work its magic. Watch as floating orbs appear, shift, and fade without pattern. A mystery that has captivated travelers for decades and fueled local debate for just as long. Back in town, Planet Marfa keeps the evening social, with good drinks and friendly faces under a soft neon glow. If you arrive in time for the setting sun, there’s a good chance you’ll be finishing that first drink just as the desert turns from gold to violet.

Nightfall is when the sky fully takes over. Marfa sits within the Greater Big Bend International Dark Sky Reserve, the world’s largest piece of land recognized for its commitment to protecting the nighttime environment. The complete absence of light pollution turns the Milky Way into a head-tilting spectacle. Take a moment while the dark resets your sense of scale and layers of stars begin to appear.

For an elevated stay under the big night sky, Cibolo Creek Ranch delivers. Set in the Chinati Mountains on 30,000 acres, this historic property brings the warmth and comfort of an authentic Texas homestead, with modern details, guided expeditions, and quiet viewpoints where the sunrise feels like a private showing. Between daytime art and stars after dark, Marfa blends contemporary edge with old-Texas texture—locally loved, globally sought.

Alpine and Beyond

On your way to Alpine, the Davis Mountains come into view, ridge lines lifting out of the desert. Near their highest point, McDonald Observatory serves both as a research center and an educational hub. On clear evenings, its massive telescopes sweep the dark West Texas sky as the dry air delivers crisp views of our solar-system, turning the night into a deep-space show. By day, the nearby Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center in Fort Davis offers trails that wind through canyons and gardens highlighting the region’s rare plants. Don’t miss the Cactus Museum or Chinquapin Grove, where sturdy oaks frame pockets of wild roses.

When you reach Alpine, let your appetite lead. Start at Reata Restaurant, a local staple with a West Texas point of view. Expect vibrant, hearty plates that land just right after a day on the road. A few blocks uphill, the Museum of the Big Bend at Sul Ross State University traces Indigenous histories, ranching eras, and borderlands art. Alpine’s stories continue on the Historic Walking Tour. Download the map and set your own pace for an evening loop past murals and storefronts. When it’s time to rest your feet, stay on the main drag at the Holland Hotel, a 1920s Spanish Colonial restored with modern comforts.

If you’re bound for other stops, head east to Marathon and the iconic Gage Hotel—a Mission Revival landmark and refined retreat between road trip days. Courtyards, fireplaces, and wide desert views set the stage for your away-from-it-all adventure. After a long day, the 12 Gage Restaurant delivers locally sourced specialties, and the White Buffalo Bar keeps the night going.

From Marathon, the road drops into Big Bend National Park. Out on the flats, it’s easy to imagine the shallow sea that once covered this corner of Texas. Traces of its ancient life are still visible along canyon walls, in caves, and from high overlooks. Keep west to Big Bend Ranch State Park, where the roads grow quieter and the adventure turns more secluded.

Evenings land well out here. Terlingua, or “Ghost Town Texas”, leans into its legend with weathered porches, mining-era relics, and the Starlight Theatre turning dinner into a small event with live music and local flair. Downriver, Lajitas Golf Resort brings an ease to the itinerary. Set along the Rio Grande, its fairways cut green against the desert, while the spa offers a quiet reset and the rooms open to views that catch the last evening light.

Marfa and Alpine invite you to explore at your own pace. Together, they paint a picture of West Texas that’s inspiring and utterly unique. Come for the art and hiking trails, stay for the starlit skies. You’re guaranteed to leave with a story that’s distinctly your own.